Undiscovered Scotland

 

The old coast road from Arisaig north to Morar is one of the most memorable in Scotland. This isn't because of its twists and turns and narrow single track stretches.

No, what makes it truly memorable is the sublime seascape formed by a series of rock-framed white beaches and stunning views across a turquoise sea towards the Small Isles of Eigg and Rum and further north to Skye. This stretch of coast is known as the Silver Sands of Morar.

This coastline begins in the south at the hamlets of Back of Keppoch and Bunacaimb. Here you will find a number of the more or less informal campsites occupying parts of the foreshore that characterise much of this coastline.

At Portnaluchaig the road skirts the beach itself, and continues around a superb bay past the 9 hole golf course at Traigh. There are a number of places here to park and simply explore the beaches and islets of the bay. Film buffs will find that parts of this coastline look very familiar: it was here that the beach scenes for "Local Hero" were shot.

A little further north again there is a parking area at Camusdarach, from where a path leads to the magnificent dunes lining this part of the coastline. This is an essential stopping-off point on any tour of the Silver Sands.

North again the road twists inland towards Kinsadel as it skirts the beaches on the estuary of the River Morar. Catch this in the right light and with its white beaches, blue sea and occasional white boat it could be the Caribbean. Except for the water temperature, of course.

Until it was replaced in 2003 by a new length of road on shorter more inland route, the narrow twisting single track road along this coast was part of the main road to Mallaig. It is a much more enjoyable expereince today, with much less traffic and virtually no chance of meeting a large fish lorry coming the other way just around the next blind corner!