Ardnamurchan Point

Ardnamurchan Lighthouse

Mainland Great Britain's most northerly point is not, as usually thought, John o' Groats. It is actually the nearby Dunnet Head. And mainland Great Britain's westernmost point? Anyone suggesting it's somewhere in Cornwall is well wide of the mark. It is actually a rocky outcrop called Corrachadh Mòr, just over half a mile south (and two hundred yards west) of Ardnamurchan Point, the tip of a peninsula that extends like an accusing finger between the islands of Mull to its south and Eigg, Rum and more distant Skye to its north.

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It takes a little effort to get to Ardnamurchan, whether from the Corran Ferry, 45 miles to the east, or from the A830 Fort William to Mallaig road before coming south through Acharacle. The third alternative is by ferry from Tobermory on Mull to Kilchoan, the only significant settlement on Ardnamurchan.

Two of these alternatives involve driving at least 30 miles of single track roads to get to Ardnamurchan Point, and 30 more to return. For more information, visit our feature page on driving single track roads.

But while reaching this most western outpost of mainland Scotland takes effort, being here is worth every ounce of it. West Ardnamurchan is a wild, lonely, and stunningly beautiful place. As you travel west from Kilchoan to Ardnamurchan Point you increasingly feel you must be coming to land's end, but sightings of the lighthouse are at best fleeting in this rock strewn and bumpy landscape.

The Engine Room

The Stables Cafe

...With Indoor Seating Too

You know you are getting close when you come to a gateway in the road guarded by traffic lights, probably the only set within fifty miles. When these turn to green you proceed along a narrow stone-walled road and around a rocky hill: and ahead of you is Ardnamurchan Lighthouse.

The lighthouse was built in 1849 with stone from Mull, one of 14 constructed in Scotland by the Stevenson family. Its particular claim to fame is that it is the only lighthouse in the world built in an Egyptian style.

When you look closely you can begin to see that the keeper's cottages might have been influenced by the craze for all things Egyptian that swept Britain in the mid 1800s. If you think you need longer to spot the design influences, the two keepers' cottages are available for rent as self-catering accommodation.

The visitors' car park is next to the old stable block, now converted into a cafe and shop, and it is from here that you buy your tickets. The cafe has outdoor seating for those wanting to enjoy the views to the beach and bay to the south, but rest assured that it also has indoor seating for less glorious weather.

The Ardnamurchan Lighthouse Trust has arranged access for guided tours of up to 8 people to the lighthouse which take place hourly: the first at 11.00am and the last at 4.00pm. The tours include the light room, the optic and (weather permitting) the balcony.

Those happy to pass up one of the best viewpoints in Western Scotland will find plenty to see and do in the exhibition. The best low level views north to Rum and Skye are from the bright red fog horn placed on a platform on the rocks below the lighthouse. Standing beneath its huge megaphone horn you may wonder what happens if it sounds. Don't worry: it's now been replaced by an electric horn mounted on the lighthouse tower itself.

The real key to any visit to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse lies in the Head Keeper's house. One end of this, by the oil tanks, is the wonderfully restored engine house. This is a treat for small boys of any age, and it gives a real feel of the operation of a working lighthouse.

The rest of the Head Keeper's House has been converted into a museum. Part covers the science of lighthouses, including the opportunity to view the lamp and lens in close-up. Other areas allow visitors to take part in live weather, coast and whale watch activities using computers and satellite links. And there is also a section covering the history and culture of West Ardnamurchan.

However, for many, the most fascinating part of the museum is the time capsule. This is an extremely detailed re-creation of the inside of the keeper's living area in the 1940s. It's all here, from the uniform hanging on the back of the door to the buttered toast on the table. The effect is so real you begin to wonder where the keepers have gone. The boring answer is that Ardnamurchan Lighthouse was automated some years ago: but that doesn't stop you thinking that they might be back to finish their breakfast at any moment...