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 Glen Lyon Post Office at Bridge of Balgie |
Glen Lyon is little known, and less visited, and it is only when you look at it on a map that you realise just how significant a presence it is in the Central Highlands. The glen is a cul-de-sac, which saved it from becoming a major through route in centuries past, or over-popular with tourists today.
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Its west end lies at lonely Loch Lyon, hiding just behind the mountains to the east of Bridge of Orchy. It almost breaks through to the route of the West Highland Railway and A82: but not quite, and the only through route is on foot.
From the loch, Glen Lyon continues east for 25 miles, to where it emerges at the lovely hamlet of Fortingall with its stunning buildings and more unusual claims to fame.
 Thatched Cottage, Fortingall |
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 Fortingall Hotel |
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 Fortingall Church |
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A single track road starts - or ends - at the dam at the head of Loch Lyon and winds the length of the glen. Upper Glen Lyon is mountain-bound and as remote as anywhere you are likely to find in this part of Scotland. Heading west, you pass one of only two road junctions within the glen, a short side road that takes you up to the dam at the head of Loch an Daimh and the mountains surrounding it.
For more information about Scotland's single track roads and how to drive them, visit our feature page on driving single track roads.
A little further east and the base of the glen becomes more fertile, especially once you pass Meggernie Castle. This was built by Mad Colin Campbell in 1585. It was these lower more fertile reaches of Glen Lyon that attracted the attentions of raiding MacDonalds from Glen Coe on many occasions between 1500 and the 1680s. And it was Mad Colin Campbell who caught and hung 30 of them on one such raid.
East again is beautiful Bridge of Balgie. This is Glen Lyon's major commercial centre, housing as it does a post office that doubles up as a tea room offering some of the most friendly and helpful service you'll find in Scotland. This is closed on Wednesday and Thursday each week, but is otherwise open throughout the year.
It's not completely true to say that the whole length of Glen Lyon is a cul-de-sac. A road climbs south from Bridge of Balgie over the main Ben Lawers ridge at a height of over 500m and passes the NTS Visitor Centre before descending to the main road a few miles east of Killin. This road is single track and best described as "adventurous" even in good weather. It is not kept open in winter.
The fertile floor of Glen Lyon continues east, though still bounded by impressive mountains both north and south. Worth a mention is the hamlet of Invervar. This is well know amongst hillwalkers as the starting point for the Glen Lyon Horseshoe, a high level walk taking in four Munros on the north side of Glen Lyon.
A mile to the east of Inverar lies the remains of Carnbane Castle. This was built in the 1500s by Red Duncan Campbell the Hospitable. At the eastern end of Glen Lyon, the sides close together before the road bursts out into the relative open spaces around Fortingall.
This is one of the most beautiful villages in Scotland. From the big house at the western end and past the farm, the village extends on to the extremely attractive Fortingall Hotel and the nearby church. In the middle is the biggest surprise of all, a number of marvellous thatched cottages.
Fortingall has two main claims to fame. In the churchyard, surrounded and protected by a stone wall and locked gate are the still growing and flourishing remains of the Fortingall Yew. The central heart of this tree has long since been removed by souvenir hunters (hence the wall), but it is thought to be 5000 years old. If so, it is probably the oldest living thing on Earth (see our Historical Timeline).
And Fortingall's other claim to fame? It is said that the village was the site of a Roman encampment during one of their very early incursions into Scotland. A local girl "fell pregnant" after a liaison with a Roman soldier. Their child's name? Pontius Pilate. An attractive story, but one that is difficult to square with the timing of known Roman incursions into Scotland.
